A method of grafting commonly practiced is budding. This system consists of a simple operation. The yearling seedling is grasped by one hand of the operator about 6 or 9 inches from the ground. In the other hand is a sharp knife, preferably a budding knife. With this the operator makes in the bark a slit not more than 1 ; inches long the long way of the tree and about 2 or 3 inches from the level of the soil. Across the top of the slit, and at right angles to it, another cut is made, thus forming a T. The back of the knife or end of the handle may be used to loosen the bark at the cambium layer.

Scions from trees that are heavy bearers of desirable varieties should be at hand. Cut one of these about one fourth of an inch just below a bud. Cut out one bud and a small portion of bark just below and above the bud. Be careful not to include much (if any) wood. Insert the bud in the T

Budding may be done in the spring, but is usually performed in August and September. The bark should slip slightly for the best work; it should slip easily at this time.

Root-grafting. The West seems to prefer trees that are rootgrafted, some sections preferring piece roots, others whole roots.

The seedlings which are to be grafted are treated in two ways. The more common way is to cut off the tops at the crown, and to cut each root into two or three pieces from 2 to 4 inches long, according to the diameter and length of the root. A scion is then grafted into each piece by the whip